Team finals. Post-comp sleepovers. Competing in rental shoes. All this and more in my interview with Max Summerlee, one of the founders and co-presidents of Canada's University Bouldering Series.
I've been working on a ranking system for Canada's open bouldering community for a few months, and now after some tweaks and sharing it with my friends, I'm happy to make it public. These ranks will be updated every Monday, and I'll be sharing regular commentary to accompany them until CEC Bouldering Nationals, at the very least.
There are a million things I want to explain about this system, which I'll start to cover on Mondays when I update the rankings. For now, I'd like to point out 4 things.
1. This is a really good catalyst for discussion, but not necessarily a perfect indicator of who will win the next competition.
2. In my head, Sean McColl holds the title of Strongest Canadian Boulderer Ever. This system only takes into account results from the last year, and puts a lot of weight into consistent results against the largest possible fields of Canadians.
3. This system is dependent on competitions posting their results. If I can't find the full open results and the format of the event online, I can't include the event in this system. (Vertical and Seven Bays - I'd still love your results!)
4. While this is a ranking system for Canada's open-age boulderers, I've made the decision not to include results from any competitions where A/JR age climbers are forced to compete outside of the open category, or who have to skip out on a WYCH-qualifier (mandatory youth locals, provincials) competition in order to compete in open.
Other than that, this project has been a fun learning experience. I look forward to your feedback, and I'm excited to use this tool for building storylines and analyzing our field of climbers. I hope you enjoy it!
I'm joined by Shaun Hunter and Brandon Barraclough to talk about Moonboard Masters, aesthetics in competition setting, the Freedom Climber, the CEC's new High Performance Director, a gym flooring manifesto, climbing while old, and Sharma getting that Polo money.
In the second part of my interview with Jeremy Dowsett, we talk about how us non-journalists handle questions of journalistic ethics, why Jeremy felt compelled to travel around the country to film competitions, and why Climbing Hold Review is becoming Outdoor Gear Review.
Jim Karn of Metolius talks to us about their foray into making climbing holds with aluminum. We talk about the advantages and limits of the material, and Jim reveals how he'll judge the product's success.