First Dissent: Visualizing Bouldering Scoring

Video???? After last week's episode, I needed to follow up and talk about how we communicate scores on livestreams. New TzA scoring or not, big and small events need to do better at presenting scores and relevant information to audiences watching from home. 

NEW: Stephen Briggs took some time to put together a mockup based on this video (see below and click to enlarge), and it looks a whole lot better than whiteboard sketches! Stephen chose to order the climbers based on only problems that all climbers have already attempted, in this case, after the first two problems. Definitely a plausible way of accounting for the way athletes will jump up and down the scoreboard as they move through the comp. Thanks Stephen!

Mockup courtesy of Stephen Briggs. Click to enlarge.

Ep. 29 - Settling Scores

Eddie Fowke, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Simon Parton, and Will Anglin join me to talk about the new IFSC and USA Climbing scoring systems for bouldering.

Ángel at OnBouldering.com put together this awesome primer for the new USA boulder scoring system.

Ep. 28 - ONE OF US: Lauren Watson

Not many 25 year olds have actually tried to open a climbing gym, and even fewer have succeeded. Lauren Watson took it a step further by opening Ground Up in Squamish, thousands of miles from her Toronto home. In this episode, hear Lauren recount her story.

 Lauren in the foreman uniform. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.

Lauren in the foreman uniform. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.

 Ground Up Climbing Centre. Photo courtesy of Teacozy Design & Photo.

Ground Up Climbing Centre. Photo courtesy of Teacozy Design & Photo.

 No comment needed. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.

No comment needed. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.

 Mom and Dad helping t-nut Ground Up. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.

Mom and Dad helping t-nut Ground Up. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.

Ep. 26 - A Coaching Foundation for the Future, with Silvia McBurney

Silvia McBurney has been working with the CEC to develop a Long Term Athlete Development plan for Canada, and has finally published the document after years of meeting with coaches and medical professionals from across the country. Silvia joins us to explain the purpose of the document, and to give an idea of how it will affect coaching and competition over the coming years.

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