Jean-Marc de la Plante at Canadian Open Boulder Nationals 2018
To help keep everything together, I'll be posting as much of my content to this site as possible. It may not always be posted here immediately, but it'll end up here as soon as possible.
Ep. 30 - Canada's New High Performance Director
Jeff Thomson is the CEC's newly-appointed High Performance Director. What does that mean for competitive climbing in Canada? Well, a lot! Jeff gave a presentation in Mississauga Ontario after Canadian Open Bouldering Nationals, and this is an edited version of that presentation.
Jeff Thomson (left) with climbing legend Christian Core. Photo courtesy of Ken Chow.
First Dissent: Visualizing Bouldering Scoring
Video???? After last week's episode, I needed to follow up and talk about how we communicate scores on livestreams. New TzA scoring or not, big and small events need to do better at presenting scores and relevant information to audiences watching from home.
NEW: Stephen Briggs took some time to put together a mockup based on this video (see below and click to enlarge), and it looks a whole lot better than whiteboard sketches! Stephen chose to order the climbers based on only problems that all climbers have already attempted, in this case, after the first two problems. Definitely a plausible way of accounting for the way athletes will jump up and down the scoreboard as they move through the comp. Thanks Stephen!
Ep. 29 - Settling Scores
Eddie Fowke, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Simon Parton, and Will Anglin join me to talk about the new IFSC and USA Climbing scoring systems for bouldering.
Ángel at OnBouldering.com put together this awesome primer for the new USA boulder scoring system.
Ep. 28 - ONE OF US: Lauren Watson
Not many 25 year olds have actually tried to open a climbing gym, and even fewer have succeeded. Lauren Watson took it a step further by opening Ground Up in Squamish, thousands of miles from her Toronto home. In this episode, hear Lauren recount her story.
Lauren in the foreman uniform. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.
Ground Up Climbing Centre. Photo courtesy of Teacozy Design & Photo.
No comment needed. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.
Mom and Dad helping t-nut Ground Up. Courtesy of Lauren Watson.
Footnotes