PW Ontario Open Boulder “Rankings”

What does each column count?

1st - number of competitions this athlete finished in first place
2nd - number of competitions this athlete finished in second place
3rd - number of competitions this athlete finished in third place
Medal Total - total number of medals this athlete has earned
Top 20 Appearances - total number of comps the athlete finished in the top 20
F1 TOTAL - total number of “F1” points this athlete has earned
T20 TOTAL - total number of “T20” points this athlete has earned

For each competition, you’ll see the name of the competition, name of the hosting facility, date of the comp, as well as:

Placing - the athlete’s final standing at that competition
F12 Points - the number of F1-style points earned from that placing
T20 Points - the number of “T20” points earned from that placing

Why are you sorting the rankings by Formula 1 points, rather than the system the IFSC uses?

The current IFSC ranking system gives points to climbers who finish 80th or higher, which is usually overkill for the smaller fields at Ontario competitions. On top of that, I’m doing this to highlight the best climbers in the province. I’m not trying to create an accurate ranking of every participant of every competition.

In Formula 1, points are only given to the top 10 finishers in a field of 20 competitors, in the following amounts:

1st - 25 points
2nd - 18 points
3rd - 15 points
4th - 12 points
5th - 10 points
6th - 8 points
7th - 6 points
8th - 4 points
9th - 2 points
10th - 1 point

This points system is relatively top-heavy, which is a strength when you’re more interested in highlighting the best climbers, rather than creating an accurate ranking of the whole field.

What are “T20” points?

T20 (no relation to the rugby world) is an off-the-cuff points system that skews toward rewarding participation. In short, you earn 20 points for a 1st place finish, 19 points for 2nd, 19 points for 3rd, all the way down to 1 point for 20th. It’s really just me messing around.

Why are you only tracking the top 20 finishers from each competition?

I can’t even get excited about climbers outside Top 20 in THE WORLD let alone locally. I’m not in the mood to transcribe every participant, so 20 is where I drew the line.

Why only competitions from Ontario?

BRO I’ve tried ranking “Canadians” in the past and trying to keep track of everyone’s citizenship at comps around the world sucked balls. Setting a geographic filter for the event is way easier for me to keep track of, and it keeps the scene small enough that you’ll usually find the same competitors at the same comps. RIP to some of the Ottawa crowd, though.

How do you decide which competitions to include?

I haven’t settled on a rigid set of criteria for a comp to be included in this list, but right now it’s basically:

1. Be held in Ontario

2. Be open to all athletes in the “open” age range (a wider range is fine with me)

3. Use common qualification and finals formats

4. Have a substantial cash prize pool (I’ve made an exception for the two senior OCF comps in 2024, but I think I’ll only make an exception for open provincials in the future)

Why are some comps not counted?

If a gym doesn’t publish results from its comp, I can’t count them. I managed to crowd source results from Instagram posts and world-of-mouth from a few people I trust, but for the Belleville Boulder Open I haven’t found anyone able to remember the final ranks of the top 6, so that comp isn’t counted for the men. If you have photos or any sort of information on this event, let me know.

Pro tip: open the table in Google Sheets and you’ll find my sources for results as notes by the name of each comp.